Counter Vegan Heaven
Vegetable Terrine
By Dina Ribaudo
GO VEGAN!
To some these are daunting words carrying the heft of discipline and self responsibility, to others it is an uplifting mantra of healthful, peaceful living. When associated with Counter Vegan Bistro these words bring thoughts of a decadent dining experience.
I met some friends at Counter in New York City’s East Village on a moderately busyMonday. As I am always late, by the time I’ve shown up they’ve got cocktails and are debating the pros and cons of composting with Counter’s talented and friendly mixologist Tonia Guffy.
She’s now explaining to a bar-guest who seeks a Kettle One martini that all of their liquors are organic or biodynamic. She offers comparable suggestions and tells us that organice liquor benefits not only the environment, but the drinker as well.
Apparently, there is virtually no hangover experienced by an “organic drink.” Counter infuses all the vodkas used in their signature martinis. Their logo engraved bottles decorate the restaurants hip, sleek bar area.
With names like Deep Throat, Tie me to the Bedpost and the Cosmic Striptease it’s easy to imagine the conversations started between strangers at the bar.
We’ve started the Dirtiest Martini (basil infusion) and the Angry Lesbian and last, my favorite, the Not Tonight Dear. It’s Juniper Gin with muddled raspberries and a bit of sparkling wine gives the drink a nice effervescent finish.
We’ve moved from the bar to a table near the front of the restaurant whose front wall of italian grotto doors is open to the street. We are greeted by Owner and Culinary Director Deborah Gavito, who from the conception to creation is the Mother of Counter.
She delivers our wine list and explains that the extensive list is one of the largest organic and biodynamic wine lists in the country and includes Vegan and Kosher wines. With prices ranging from $25 ti $10,000 a bottle everyone can find something they’re comfortable with. We select a high-end Barbera d’Alba and dig into food menu which is amazing.
Our server for the evening is Tara Brown. She is as friendly as our bartender and is patient and careful to take each persons own dietary needs into consideration when making food suggestions. This can be hard with a militant vegan, a carnivore and a gluten/dairy free person sitting together, but Counter is able to satisfy all.
We start with a Mezze of three appetizers; Chickpea fries with a saffron ailoli, Corn Beignets with a tarragon reumoulaaue and Zaalok; a spicey eggplant, red pepper caviar served warm.
This is complimented by the Avocado Basket Salad and Potato-Almond Gnocchi with a Pesto reduction. Not one dish fails to impress, not one bite goes uneaten.
Our main course is no less exciting. The militant vegan has the rich and delicious marinated Raw Vegetable Terrine stuffed with sun-dried tomato, basil and nut cheese perots. The carnivore chose the hearty Tornados of Sietan topped with a mustard sauce served with garlic mashed potatoes and white asparagus.
I, being gluten and dairy free, chose the vegetable Tasting Mosaic. This plate is an amzing array of sautéed and marinated veggies including pearl onions, haricots verts, artichoke hearts, roasted fennel, squash, carrots, Portobello mushrooms, pureed sweet potato and quinoa with a cumin emulsion. This meal was satisfying for all. We took note of freshness of the ingredients and praise the fact that all items used in this restaurant are organic, from the vegetables to the garnish on your cocktails.
Just when we thought we couldn’t take anymore we are presented with an all vegan dessert menu with ice “creams,” and sorbet made in the house. This is Heaven for people with dairy restrictions!
We opted for the Gooey Hot Fudge Sunday wit Maple pecan, the Crème Brulee and a scoop of each sorbet; Kiwi Lime, Strawberry Banana Mint and Pineapple Coconut. All desserts were devoured with the assistance of after dinner drinks.
We shared a Selaks Ice Wine, a traditional Pastisse and a signature cocktail Up All Night, made with espresso infused with vodka and chocolate. Pure Joy. Even the carnivore was amply satisfied.
COUNTER
105 first avenue
NYC.10003
212.982.5870
See the full menu at:
www.CounterNYC.com
Now Permanently Closed updated 2025